This is how I prepared the fabric for my talismanic gömlek.
For my first attempt, I used a basic bleached cotton muslin.
First I made a solution of starch. I used tapioca starch and mixed it into hot water.
I then dunked the fabric into the starch solution and wetted it thoroughly. After removing it from the starch, I hung it to dry. Once dry, I misted it with water and ironed it thoroughly. This gave the fabric a paper like texture - it was rather stiff.
I used a scrap portion to test the various pens and inks that I had. I used modern materials, trying for color fast and archival qualities. I found that micron pens and pigma markers worked nicely. For the gold, I used a watered down acrylic paint. Before washing, I heat set the designs with a hot iron.
For my first gömlek, I sewed the body pieces together and finished the seams before starching and decorating the fabric. I found that working around the seams was difficult, in terms of keeping the ruler flat and making consistent lines. For future attempts, I would draw out the pattern pieces and do the starching and decorating prior to cutting and piecing the gömlek.
I will write more on the history and purpose of talismanic gömleks in a later post. For this one, I just wanted to get my process down. For a start, though, here are some links to explore:
Ulusal Tez Merkezi | Anasayfa (yok.gov.tr) Evaluation of codes the talismanic shirts in the collections of Topkapi Palace
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