Talismanic gömlek
This is how I prepared the fabric for my talismanic gömlek.
For my first attempt, I used a basic bleached cotton muslin.
First I made a solution of starch. I used tapioca starch and mixed it into hot water.
I then dunked the fabric into the starch solution and wetted it thoroughly. After removing it from the starch, I hung it to dry. Once dry, I misted it with water and ironed it thoroughly. This gave the fabric a paper like texture - it was rather stiff.
I used a scrap portion to test the various pens and inks that I had. I used modern materials, trying for color fast and archival qualities. I found that micron pens and pigma markers worked nicely. For the gold, I used a watered down acrylic paint. Before washing, I heat set the designs with a hot iron.
For my first gömlek, I sewed the body pieces together and finished the seams before starching and decorating the fabric. I found that working around the seams was difficult, in terms of keeping the ruler flat and making consistent lines. For future attempts, I would draw out the pattern pieces and do the starching and decorating prior to cutting and piecing the gömlek.
I will write more on the history and purpose of talismanic gömleks in a later post. For this one, I just wanted to get my process down. For a start, though, here are some links to explore:
Ulusal Tez Merkezi | Anasayfa (yok.gov.tr) Evaluation of codes the talismanic shirts in the collections of Topkapi Palace
Making the starch Starching the fabric Drying the fabric My test piece Ironing the gömlek Testing for colorfastness A test drawing Some of the pens I used More testing More testing Starting on the gömlek Mac is supervising First stage - outlining Adding color Adding gold Progress.... More detail Starting the vinework Vine detail Finished, for now Extant talismanic gömlek Extant talismanic gömlek
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