I have been involved with the Janissary Band since Pennsic 48 (2019). I really knew nothing about the culture of the Ottoman Empire at all at that time. The draw was the marching band. And drums. I can't play them, but I love them. I saw a call go out on Facebook for recruits, and there was a link to the JBand FB group. I clicked on "Join". One of the vetting questions was something like, "Do you commit to having Ottoman garb ready to wear?" Given that Pennsic was only 2 weeks away, I squeaked and clicked "back," but Osman was quick and had accepted me into the group already. I gulped, and started working on my garb.
My first garb as a Janissary largely consisted of hastily converted Viking-ish garb. My kaftan was a Viking tunic that I slit down the front middle. I wore big floppy Viking pants, and low shoes. Knowing nothing about Ottoman garb, I thought I was quite dashing.
I carried a flag in the band that year, and I had a great time. We marched for Ansteorra, and in addition to leading them into Opening Ceremony, we also led their army onto the field for the battle. Our pay was given in cookies, brownies, and a dinner in their camp. The JBand also marched to the Knowne World A&S Display on middle Sunday and performed 'Genç Osman,' a song about a young warrior who fell during the assault on Baghdad.
One of the things that struck me most about the JBand was its camaraderie. The group really felt like family. Members came from all over the Known World to gather for a few days of rehearsal at Pennsic, and formed a bond. In addition to teaching us the songs and the march, Osman taught about Ottoman culture. We learned about the importance of the kazan (the cauldron), and how important the Janissaries were to the Sultan. One of the special treats for the JBand was baklava and Turkish coffee served in the rehearsal tent after Opening Ceremonies. Every experience with the Band was so much fun.
In March of 2020, I attended Atlantia's Kingdom Arts and Sciences Festival in North Carolina. I was displaying my Estonian work, which featured the use of horsehair as an element for stringing metal spirals onto a headband.
Osman was also in attendance at the event. He stopped by my display and we talked about the Janissary Band, particularly tughs, a ceremonial standard that conveyed the authority of the Sultan. Tughs were also bestowed upon nobles and dignitaries of the Ottoman court and given to political allies. One of the distinguishing features of the tugh is the ornately patterned horsehair that covers the staff. The Janissary Band carried 3 tughs made using fabric that has been printed with digitally enhance scans of an extant tugh's horsehair patterns. I was intrigued by the prospect of learning to recreate the horsehair patterns. Osman and I talked quite a bit that day, and we remained in contact afterwards.
Shortly after KASF 2020, the Covid pandemic started, and my state, like many others, enforced quarantines and curfews. One of the online events that sprang out of pandemic was the Calontir Clothing Challenge. Unfortunately, I forget the specifics of the challenge, but the general idea of it was to make several layers of an outfit. Participants could elect what level of expertise they were at, and whether they were making items by machine or by hand.
Here is my original document for the event, detailing what I was going to make:
As much as I could, I took inspiration from extant pieces, and attempted to analyze the fit and seam lines of them. I did not complete every part of the outfit that I was planning, but I learned quite a bit, and completed several pieces.
The first pieces I finished were the undergarments, the don and gömlek. DEFINE
Next I completed a talismanic gömlek. DEFINE
For my next layer, I made wool salwar and a stenciled kaftan.
The final layer that I completed was a short sleeve wool kaftan.
I felt that this ensemble gave me a good start at an Ottoman wardrobe.
In early 2021, I was beginning to look at the techniques used for creating a tugh. I learned how to prepare the horsehair for working into patterns, and how to make the first basic patterns.
The next part of the tugh that I worked on figuring out was the plumes that are on the top of the tugh.
I also continued learning about the culture of the Ottoman Empire, and the rank and roles within the janissaries. By the time Pennsic 49 (2022) happened, I was promoted to the rank of silahtar within the Janissary Band. The silahtar are the personal attendants of the sultan. They served in the Has Oda - the inner chambers, and were the swordbearers of the sultan. As silahtar, I wear garb that is predominately red in color, and a red keçe. The Keçe is the distinctive hat of the janissary. It is distinguished by a long "sleeve" that hangs down the back, which is said to be the sleeve of the Prophet. I also made a plume of horsehair for my keçe. It was based on an image from Codex Vindobonensis 8626 (c.1591, fol 13).
I also displayed my horsehair work at the Known World A&S display at Pennsic 49. I spoke to quite a few people, and there was a lot of interest in my display.
After Pennsic 49 concluded, we began preparation in earnest for Pennsic 50. Osman's goal for Pennsic 50 was to have 50 mehteren (band members) on the field. At Atlantia's winter University in February 2023, he and I co-taught two classes - "The Pennsic Janissary Band", and "Horsehair Banners and Standards of Central Asia".
In March 2023, I was able to travel to Istanbul, Turkiye. The focus of the trip was to be immersed in the history of the Ottoman Empire. Sites that I saw included Yedikule, Galata Tower, Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Sarayi, the Byzantine walls of the city, Yerebatan Sarnici, Sulimaniye Camii, Rustem Pasha Camii, Cemberlitas, the Hippodrome, and the Army Museum. In addition, Osman and I met with a sufi dervish sarıkcı (turban maker). We learned how to wind an Ottoman turban, and also visited his workshop where the kavuks (bases of the turbans) are made. As we learned more about the janissaries, we have learned how entwined the janissaries and bektashi sufi order were. We established a relationship with the dervish, and continue to be in contact with him.
In preparation for Pennsic 50, Osman and I worked together to prepare nearly 20 new turbans in order to improve the standards of the Pennsic Janissary Band. We also prepared for a film crew to camp with the Ottoman camp. A film producer is making a documentary about the Pennsic Janissary Band, and about the efforts to portray this element of Ottoman History. A trailer has been released, with the completed film expected in May 2024. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwGbYWtu_2I
The most notable change that I made to my garb in preparation for Pennsic 50 included the addition of zülüflü (long tresses). Silahtars were members of the "tressed halberdiers" who were stationed in the private chambers of the sultan and his family.
This past month (December 2023), I have been fortunate to co-present at a workshop at Istanbul Ticaret Universitesi. In addition, Osman and I visited the military base at Harbiye and met with the command staff of the Mehter Band in Istanbul.
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